Tuesday, October 09, 2012


Los Angeles, CA. Given the choice between being held hostage on the gridlocked 405 during rush-hour and eating dinner alone at a restaurant, most Angelinos would prefer the traffic; in traffic, at least, no one will judge you for singing solo. If more of them knew about the bar menu at Lucques, however, they might change their minds.

Chef Suzanne Goin's well-deserved reputation makes grabbing a stool on the weekend a task best left to those with dinner reservations; however, pulling over mid-week for a civilized but casual post-work pick-me-up is fairly easy. Few things restore my faith in all that is good in the world like a bowl of pasta, and Lucques' Spaghetti Carbonara, available only at the bar, is like a gluten-filled hug at the end of a long day. In a world where most carbonara is overwhelmed by non-traditional cream or (gasp!) peas, this straightforward take on the Roman classic is refreshing: parsley, pepper, and parmesan-flecked, satisfyingly eggy, and studded generously with chunks of thick-cut bacon. It never disappoints, even if the service occasionally does. Busy bartenders aside, take an intermission from commuter karaoke and savor the occasional joy of dining alone - you won't be disappointed.

8474 Melrose Ave
West Hollywood, CA 90069
(323) 655-6277

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